Zurich Highlights: One Area, One Street, and Three Churches

Zurich

蘇黎世市中心貼著蘇黎世湖(Zürichsee)的北端,Limmat River流過市中心,有趣的景點在Limmat River的兩岸。計畫行程大致上只需要知道一個區、一條街和三座教堂 Altstadt, Bahnhofstrasse, Grossmünsterplatz Church, St. Peter’s Church and Fraumünster Church.

The city of Zurich sits on the North side of Lake Zurich which flows into Limmat River in downtown. Most of the architectural highlights situate in both shores of the Limmat River. To get around downtown Zurich, all you need to know are one area, one street and three churches: Altstadt, Bahnhofstrasse, Grossmünsterplatz Church, St. Peter’s Church and Fraumünster Church. 

Zurich Hauptbahnhof train station

Altstadt舊城區是火車站以南靠近湖邊的利馬特河兩岸,有很多可愛的店和餐廳,許多小巷都是石板路。Bahnhofstrasse (站前大道或班霍夫大道)是蘇黎世的第五大道,高檔精品店都在這條路上,許多金融業的總部也在這一區,值得逛的地方大概從火車站(Zurich HB/Hauptbahnhof)開始到湖邊的Bürkliplatz。三個有名的教堂都在舊城區,走一走就會遇到。從火車站走到湖邊大概只要二十分鐘,所以市中心整區只要一天就可以好好走路逛完。

火車站每個星期三早上十點到晚上八點有個市集,賣新鮮蔬果和醃肉、起士、麵包、橄欖等等。

Speciality Market at Zürich Main Station

Altstadt, or old town, lies along both sides of the Limmat River from the point where the Limmat leaves the Lake Zurich up to the main train station (Zurich HB/Hauptbahnhof.) The old town features beautiful cobblestone streets and many historical, medieval landmarks of the city. It only takes about 20 minutes to walk from the train station to Bürkliplatz at the Lake Zurich along the popular promenade of Bahnhofstrasse. So it should be easy to hit most of the tourist spots and must-go restaurants in one day.

There is a farmer’s market at the main hall of the train station on Wednesdays from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. You can find seasonal vegetables, fresh bread, cured meat, gourmet cheese and brined olives here.

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Speciality Market at Zürich Main Station

延著Bahnhofstrasse往南走會經過一個電車交會的廣場Paradeplatz,UBS跟Credit Suisse的總部都在這,但我默默記下這個站名是因為巧克力店 Confiserie Sprüngli,第一天坐電車進城特地在這一站下車朝聖。

Bahnhofstrasse, or station street, is a shopping avenue and also home to the biggest banks and financial institutions around the world. If you head south from the train station, you’d pass by Paradeplatz, which is the most famous plaza in downtown. Both UBS and Credit Suisse Group are headquartered here. Paradeplatz is also known for the famous chocolate shop and cafe, Confiserie Sprüngli, which was the reason why I made Paradeplatz our first stop in town.

Confiserie Sprüngli

到處推薦的瑞士傳統菜Zeughauskeller也在附近。

The famous traditional Swiss cuisine, Zeughauskeller, is nearby.

Zeughauskeller

St. Peter Church (聖彼得教堂) 和 Fraumünster Church (Women’s Minster,聖母大教堂) 都在河的西岸,Bahnhofstrasse這一側,Grossmünsterplatz Church(蘇黎世大教堂) 在河的另一邊。

St. Peter Church and Fraumünster Church (Women’s Minster) situate on the west bank of the Limmat River near the Bahnhofstrasse; Grossmünster is located on the other side of the river.

Zurich at night

這天我們趕著要看完市中心、去吃Zeughauskeller、再fashionably late出現在會議的reception,所以沒有進教堂參觀。

離火車站最近的是聖彼得教堂 (Kirche St. Peter Zürich),就在Lindenhof旁邊,Lindenhof是很多人推薦看市區全景的地點,但其實是個沒有很高的小丘。聖彼得教堂的直徑8.7公尺的鐘面號稱全歐最大。

We just arrived Zurich and was rushing to walk through the city and try Zeughauskeller before we arrive fashionably late at a reception. So we didn’t have time to visit the interior of these churches.

Among the three renowned churches, Kirche St. Peter Zürich, or St. Peter’s Church, is the closest one to the train station. With a diameter of 8.7 meters, its clock allegedly has the largest clock face in Europe. St. Peter’s Church is close to Lindenhof, which is a park that overlooks the Limmat River.

St Peter's Church Zurich

Fraumünster的翡翠尖塔很好認,教堂建於853年,教堂有名的是夏卡爾設計的玫瑰花窗,找個Orthodox Jew來設計基督教教堂花窗蠻幽默的。

It’s very easy to spot the Fraumünster due to its elegant clock tower topped with a slender teal spire. Fraumünster is best known for its glass windows designed by Marc Chagall. I found it interesting to have an Orthodox Jew to design Christian glass windows.

Fraumünster

Grossmünster大概是蘇黎世最大地標,最早是查理曼大帝蓋的,好像只有地下室保存下來,翻修的兩個圓頂被大家說是胡椒罐,如果有時間的話,爬到塔頂看整個蘇黎世聽起來很不錯。

這個教堂在宗教改革扮演重要的角色,當年Zwingli就是在這個教堂佈道和以此為據點開始他的改革運動,Zwingli生在人文主義興起和瑞士邦聯爭取獨立的年代,他受到馬丁路德的影響,但後來自成一派,把各式文本和禮拜翻譯成德語,讓瑞士脫離神聖羅馬帝國的控制。

Grossmünster is the landmark of Zurich. Legend has it that this church was founded by Charlemagne. This church has its fascinating historical significance because it was the hub of Swiss-German Reformation led by Zwingli. Climbing to the top to see the entire city sounds great but we didn’t have time for that.

Grossmünster

右岸Niederdorfstrasse充滿可愛的店和餐廳,很值得慢慢逛。

It’s wonderful to take a stroll in the east bank along Niederdorfstrasse, a beautiful area of cobblestone streets lined up with pretty stores and restaurants.

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走一走會遇到達達主義的發源地,伏爾泰酒館 (Cabaret Voltaire)。第一次世界大戰的時候,很多藝術家用難民身分來到瑞士,這一群激進虛無的藝術家在這個酒館開始了這個對現代文學及藝術影響深遠的運動,1916年,Hugo Ball在這裡宣讀達達主義宣言。現在變成舉辦活動和展覽的場地,有個小店在賣文具和其他商品,星期二到星期天的12:30-18:30營業。

Here you’ll find Cabaret Voltaire, where the Dada movement started during World War One. In 1916, Hugo Ball read the Dada Manufesto in the cabaret. The cabaret now hosts events and exhibitions. Its store where you can find designer stationary and accessories is open from 12:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday.

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Dada Movement Cabaret Voltaire

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這一趟的遺憾是沒有機會去Freitag星期五郵差包的旗艦店(有照片),他們的旗艦店是用貨櫃堆起來的,我非常想去參觀,可惜不是開會太晚就是剛好店公休。Freitag是用貨櫃帆布和安全帶做成的郵差包,每個包包都長得不一樣,價格不太親民。除了Freitag旗艦店要搭車之外,其他都在小小的市中心。

I really wanted to visit the flagship store of Freitag but unfortunately missed it. This Freitag store was built with 19 rusty freight containers (photos).

ZurichMap

地圖上左上角的Zurich HB是火車站,藍色那條線是Bahnhofstrasse,三個淺藍圖釘是那三座教堂,左邊的刀叉是傳統瑞士菜Zeughauskeller,咖啡杯是Confiserie Sprüngli,右岸的刀叉是瑞士起士鍋Raclette Stube。

從蘇黎世當地的旅遊地圖也可以看出來景點真的很集中。

On the upper left, “Zurich HB” is the train station. The blue line is Bahnhofstrasse. Those three teal pins mark the three churches. The restaurant on the left bank is Zeughauskeller and the coffee cup marks Confiserie Sprüngl. The restaurant on the East side is a fondue restaurant, Raclette Stube. It’s a fairly compact and walkable city.

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