Zurich Delicacies: Luxemburgerli and Chocolate

Luxemburgerli at Confiserie Sprüngli

出發前做功課決定有三樣東西一定要吃/喝到:Rivella, Luxembergerli, 和道地香腸馬鈴薯的瑞士菜。(Rivella遊湖之旅)

Three things made my must-eat list prior to the trip: Rivella, Luxemburgerli, and a meal of Swiss cuisine with some sausage and rösti. A third of the mission was accomplished on the Lake Zurich boat trip where I tried Rivella for the first time. Luckily the rest of my mission also worked out quite well.

Confiserie Sprüngli

Confiserie Sprüngli Lexembergerli

迷你馬卡龍 Macaron, highway robbery style (or not!?)

剛到蘇黎世第一天進城就特地說服室友在Paradeplatz下車,一切都是為了Confiserie Sprüngli這家甜點巧克力專賣店兼咖啡店。Confiserie Sprüngli是瑞士的高檔巧克力店之一,創於1836年, 1859年在當年的Neumarkt也就是現在這個廣場開了店,1882年,Sprüngli家族的巧克力和糕點分家,巧克力製造變成了大家知道的Lindt瑞士蓮,公司全名其實是Lindt & Sprüngli AG。

Sprüngli在1950年代開始賣Luxembergerli,其實就是迷你馬卡龍,比大部分馬卡龍不甜一點,比馬卡龍鬆軟,因為內餡是cream。長得很小很高,殼很平滑很圓,直徑大概只有兩公分半 (Sprüngli’s Lexembergerli和Ladurée macaron大小的比較)。

四個賣3.95瑞士法郎,也就是說小小四口就要台幣將近150,當時一直覺得在搶錢,是把馬卡龍變小但是賣一樣貴的意思,回來發現有人說其實Luxembergerli比較便宜 (12 CHF per 100g v.s. 10.90 CHF per 100g) 大概是因為在蘇黎世沒做什麼就花錢如流水,加上當時結帳只是三顆Luxembergerli、四個巧克力、一小包巧克力糖漬橘子就二十幾塊瑞士法郎再見了,所以一直覺得一切都很貴。

這些小馬卡龍只能放三到五天,除了這家旗艦店之外,有好幾家分店,在火車站或機場都有得買。每個月會有當月口味,每天都有的口味有香草、巧克力、教堂、香檳、榛果等等,另外有季節限定的口味,譬如說無花果、辣椒威士忌和蛋酒。

看著整排櫥窗時幾種口味,但只能很節制地買幾個,非常掙扎地思考到底要如何取捨,然後在這同時一邊看著隔壁貴婦指著櫥窗說,五個草莓、五個榛果、五個香檳、五個百香果….輕鬆挑口味填滿她可以裝72顆的…簡直是「一箱」Luxembergerli。我挑了百香果、栗子和巧克力。每次去新的蛋糕店或冰淇淋都會用巧克力口味來鑑定大家,但這次是個失敗決策,巧克力口味沒有驚為天人,其他兩個口味比較好吃。

Confiserie Sprüngli Lexembergerli

On our first day in Zurich when we first took the tram in town, I talked my roommate into hopping off the tram at Paradeplatz. It was all for my sweet tooth destination, Confiserie Sprüngli.

Confiserie Sprüngli is a chocolate store and a cafe known for its pralines, truffles and Luxembergerli. Sprüngli was founded in 1836 and this flagship store opened in then Newmarkt, now Paradeplatz, in 1859. In 1882, its chocolate producing business split off from its confectionery part and became Lindt, whose full name is Lindt & Sprüngli AG.

Confiserie Sprüngli Lexembergerli

I read about Luxembergerli prior to the trip and I had to try these petite, pretty delicacies. Luxembergerli is basically mini macarons that are smaller and taller. Yet they are slightly different. Luxembergerli is typically lighter and less sweet. They have perfectly smooth and round domes, and they are fluffier and more airy. Macarons are more chewy. That’s mostly because Luxembergerli’s filling is made of cream while some macarons use jelly, ganache or other filling with a stickier texture. The biggest difference is that Luxembergerli are tiny! About 1 inch in diameter. (Photos that compare the sizes of Ladurée macarons and Sprüngli Luxembergerli.)

It was probably because how much money I dropped at Sprüngli just for three little Luxembergerli and some truffles. Or it might be that my Swiss Francs went out so fast throughout the trip while I didn’t do much. I thought these petite dessert was macaron in a highway robbery style: let’s make macarons smaller and charge people the same. Four Luxembergerli are sold at 3.95 CHF. But later I realized Luxembergerli are actually cheaper. Some people say the price difference is 12 CHF per 100g Ladurée macarons versus 10.90 CHF per 100g Luxembergerli.

Their year-round flavors include vanilla, chocolate, caramel fleur de sel, Champagne classique, Champagne gold, hazelnut, raspberry, and cappuccino deluxe. There are some seasonal ones such as fig, chili whisky and eggnog. Each month there is a special flavor. For example, the “Luxembergerli of the Month” in July 2013 is elderberry mint.

I got passion fruit, chestnut and chocolate. I often judge an ice cream store or bakery by how good their chocolate flavored item is. That was probably a bad idea this time around. The chocolate one was not too impressive. The other two were both very good, with a burst of flavor in one bite.

These sweets are good for only three to five days. Besides their flagship store in Paradeplatz, you can find satellite stores throughout the city, for example, in the main train station HB and at the airport.Confiserie Sprüngli Lexembergerli

除了Luxembergerli之外,他們的巧克力也非常有名,是每天手工現做的,24小時之內就會賣掉,(不知道收店的員工可不可以帶巧克力回家),店員會叫大家當天就要吃完,這完全不是個問題,畢竟我的甜點胃比我的荷包大很多。我挑了一個黑巧克力和一個玫瑰水口味,他們的巧克力真的有個絲滑口感,入口即化沒有在騙人的。

店裡巧克力最高等級是Cru Sauvage,用的是玻利維亞來的據說高檔可可豆,一盒16顆36瑞士法郎,本來想買一顆吃吃看,但店裡剛好沒有。再下一等級是Grand Cru,聽說熱可可也很不錯,但我已經在這家店花了超過30瑞士法郎,決定應該收斂一點,不要繼續砸錢在巧克力上…

Their famous hand-dipped truffles are made fresh every day with no preservatives. These truffles have to be consumed on the same day, which was not a problem for me. I could not wait to try these melt-in-your-mouth treats and it was impossible for me to afford more than I could eat at once.

I bought a dark chocolate Truffle du Jour and some sort of rose water truffle. Their truffles have a silky consistency. The highest level in their truffle lineup is Cru Sauvage, which is made with cacao beans picked in the wild of Bolivia. A box of 16 Cru Sauvage costs 36 CHF. Fortunately I suppose, Cru Sauvage was not available when we went. I still wanted to try their hot chocolate and Grand Cru truffles though. In the meantime, I was watching very nicely dressed women contemplating what flavors of Luxembergerli to get to fill a box of 72 pieces, or sharp-looking young man walking in to grab a Sprüngli sandwich for lunch and a cake for later. However, my self control beat my cravings for chocolate. By this point I had already dropped over 30 CHF in this store. I decided I should stop there.

Paradeplatz

平民價位伴手禮巧克力 Supermarkets and souvenir chocolates

Migros supermarket每次去新的國家,都會認真找機會去逛超市,看當地才有的水果蔬菜或食物,也看全球品牌的不一樣包裝。蘇黎世兩大超市是Migros和Coop,據說沒有太大差別。

平民巧克力的兩大廠牌是Lindt和Frey,不管台灣美國,Lindt巧克力都很常見,所以我的伴手禮都是Frey (2014年這次回台灣發現其實好多地方有賣Frey,不過選擇當然沒有瑞士的超市多,帶便宜伴手禮可能還是要挑Frey然後以特殊口味取勝)。Frey是瑞士的巧克力製造公司,在瑞士巧克力市場佔有率36.8% (2012),是Migros集團旗下的公司,所以Migros都賣Frey,Coop都賣Lindt。

Not anyone can afford souvenir that is 2 CHF a bite, but there are very friendly-priced alternatives.

The two biggest supermarkets in Zurich are Migros and Coop. When I travel, I always make it a point to visit local supermarkets. It is fascinating to see food that you can’t find elsewhere, and global brands that are packaged in a local language or a localized design.

The two biggest chocolate companies are Lindt and Frey. Lindt truffles are so common in the States, so I went with Frey as my souvenir choice. Frey is a Swiss chocolate company which has 36.8% of market share in Switzerland (2012.) The company belongs to the Migros Group. So Migros sells Frey and Coop sells Lindt.

Frey chocolate

Rivella

瑞士人真的很愛把各式的醬裝在軟管裡,還是歐洲人都這樣!?

Mustard, salsa, salad dressing and everything in tubes.

阿華田是瑞士牌,所以也順便抓了一片阿華田黑巧克力。

Ovomaltine/Ovaltine comes from Switzerland, so I grabbed a Ovaltine chocolate bar in addition to Frey chocolate.

這是超市之一Coop提供給參加會議人們在最後一天一日遊的食物。

This is what Coop, as a sponsor, put together for conference participants on our day of field trip.

Coop

最後一天沒有附早餐,所以前一天晚上未雨綢繆地在回家路上先買好一個三明治(3.7瑞士法郎)。順便抓了一罐綠茶Rivella。

Breakfast was not included for the last day at the hotel, so I bought a sandwich (3.7 CHF) at Migros on my way home the previous night. And…I didn’t pass on the opportunity to try another flavor of Rivella on my last day in Switzerland.

Sprüngli (map)
Bahnhofstrasse 21
8001 Zurich, Switzerland
www.spruengli.ch
Trams 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15
Buses N1, N6, N13, N14

3 thoughts on “Zurich Delicacies: Luxemburgerli and Chocolate

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