Three things made my must-eat list prior to the trip: Rivella, Luxemburgerli, and a meal of Swiss cuisine with some sausage and rösti. A third of the mission was accomplished on the Lake Zurich boat trip where I tried Rivella for the first time. Luckily the rest of my mission also worked out quite well.
迷你馬卡龍 Macaron, highway robbery style (or not!?)
剛到蘇黎世第一天進城就特地說服室友在Paradeplatz下車，一切都是為了Confiserie Sprüngli這家甜點巧克力專賣店兼咖啡店。Confiserie Sprüngli是瑞士的高檔巧克力店之一，創於1836年， 1859年在當年的Neumarkt也就是現在這個廣場開了店，1882年，Sprüngli家族的巧克力和糕點分家，巧克力製造變成了大家知道的Lindt瑞士蓮，公司全名其實是Lindt & Sprüngli AG。
Sprüngli在1950年代開始賣Luxembergerli，其實就是迷你馬卡龍，比大部分馬卡龍不甜一點，比馬卡龍鬆軟，因為內餡是cream。長得很小很高，殼很平滑很圓，直徑大概只有兩公分半 (Sprüngli’s Lexembergerli和Ladurée macaron大小的比較)。
四個賣3.95瑞士法郎，也就是說小小四口就要台幣將近150，當時一直覺得在搶錢，是把馬卡龍變小但是賣一樣貴的意思，回來發現有人說其實Luxembergerli比較便宜 (12 CHF per 100g v.s. 10.90 CHF per 100g) 大概是因為在蘇黎世沒做什麼就花錢如流水，加上當時結帳只是三顆Luxembergerli、四個巧克力、一小包巧克力糖漬橘子就二十幾塊瑞士法郎再見了，所以一直覺得一切都很貴。
On our first day in Zurich when we first took the tram in town, I talked my roommate into hopping off the tram at Paradeplatz. It was all for my sweet tooth destination, Confiserie Sprüngli.
Confiserie Sprüngli is a chocolate store and a cafe known for its pralines, truffles and Luxembergerli. Sprüngli was founded in 1836 and this flagship store opened in then Newmarkt, now Paradeplatz, in 1859. In 1882, its chocolate producing business split off from its confectionery part and became Lindt, whose full name is Lindt & Sprüngli AG.
I read about Luxembergerli prior to the trip and I had to try these petite, pretty delicacies. Luxembergerli is basically mini macarons that are smaller and taller. Yet they are slightly different. Luxembergerli is typically lighter and less sweet. They have perfectly smooth and round domes, and they are fluffier and more airy. Macarons are more chewy. That’s mostly because Luxembergerli’s filling is made of cream while some macarons use jelly, ganache or other filling with a stickier texture. The biggest difference is that Luxembergerli are tiny! About 1 inch in diameter. (Photos that compare the sizes of Ladurée macarons and Sprüngli Luxembergerli.)
It was probably because how much money I dropped at Sprüngli just for three little Luxembergerli and some truffles. Or it might be that my Swiss Francs went out so fast throughout the trip while I didn’t do much. I thought these petite dessert was macaron in a highway robbery style: let’s make macarons smaller and charge people the same. Four Luxembergerli are sold at 3.95 CHF. But later I realized Luxembergerli are actually cheaper. Some people say the price difference is 12 CHF per 100g Ladurée macarons versus 10.90 CHF per 100g Luxembergerli.
Their year-round flavors include vanilla, chocolate, caramel fleur de sel, Champagne classique, Champagne gold, hazelnut, raspberry, and cappuccino deluxe. There are some seasonal ones such as fig, chili whisky and eggnog. Each month there is a special flavor. For example, the “Luxembergerli of the Month” in July 2013 is elderberry mint.
I got passion fruit, chestnut and chocolate. I often judge an ice cream store or bakery by how good their chocolate flavored item is. That was probably a bad idea this time around. The chocolate one was not too impressive. The other two were both very good, with a burst of flavor in one bite.
These sweets are good for only three to five days. Besides their flagship store in Paradeplatz, you can find satellite stores throughout the city, for example, in the main train station HB and at the airport.
店裡巧克力最高等級是Cru Sauvage，用的是玻利維亞來的據說高檔可可豆，一盒16顆36瑞士法郎，本來想買一顆吃吃看，但店裡剛好沒有。再下一等級是Grand Cru，聽說熱可可也很不錯，但我已經在這家店花了超過30瑞士法郎，決定應該收斂一點，不要繼續砸錢在巧克力上…
Their famous hand-dipped truffles are made fresh every day with no preservatives. These truffles have to be consumed on the same day, which was not a problem for me. I could not wait to try these melt-in-your-mouth treats and it was impossible for me to afford more than I could eat at once.
I bought a dark chocolate Truffle du Jour and some sort of rose water truffle. Their truffles have a silky consistency. The highest level in their truffle lineup is Cru Sauvage, which is made with cacao beans picked in the wild of Bolivia. A box of 16 Cru Sauvage costs 36 CHF. Fortunately I suppose, Cru Sauvage was not available when we went. I still wanted to try their hot chocolate and Grand Cru truffles though. In the meantime, I was watching very nicely dressed women contemplating what flavors of Luxembergerli to get to fill a box of 72 pieces, or sharp-looking young man walking in to grab a Sprüngli sandwich for lunch and a cake for later. However, my self control beat my cravings for chocolate. By this point I had already dropped over 30 CHF in this store. I decided I should stop there.
平民價位伴手禮巧克力 Supermarkets and souvenir chocolates
平民巧克力的兩大廠牌是Lindt和Frey，不管台灣美國，Lindt巧克力都很常見，所以我的伴手禮都是Frey (2014年這次回台灣發現其實好多地方有賣Frey，不過選擇當然沒有瑞士的超市多，帶便宜伴手禮可能還是要挑Frey然後以特殊口味取勝)。Frey是瑞士的巧克力製造公司，在瑞士巧克力市場佔有率36.8% (2012)，是Migros集團旗下的公司，所以Migros都賣Frey，Coop都賣Lindt。
Not anyone can afford souvenir that is 2 CHF a bite, but there are very friendly-priced alternatives.
The two biggest supermarkets in Zurich are Migros and Coop. When I travel, I always make it a point to visit local supermarkets. It is fascinating to see food that you can’t find elsewhere, and global brands that are packaged in a local language or a localized design.
The two biggest chocolate companies are Lindt and Frey. Lindt truffles are so common in the States, so I went with Frey as my souvenir choice. Frey is a Swiss chocolate company which has 36.8% of market share in Switzerland (2012.) The company belongs to the Migros Group. So Migros sells Frey and Coop sells Lindt.
Mustard, salsa, salad dressing and everything in tubes.
Ovomaltine/Ovaltine comes from Switzerland, so I grabbed a Ovaltine chocolate bar in addition to Frey chocolate.
This is what Coop, as a sponsor, put together for conference participants on our day of field trip.
Breakfast was not included for the last day at the hotel, so I bought a sandwich (3.7 CHF) at Migros on my way home the previous night. And…I didn’t pass on the opportunity to try another flavor of Rivella on my last day in Switzerland.
- Zurich: Arrival
- Zurich Highlights: One Area, One Street, and Three Churches
- Zurich: Lake Zurich
- Zurich: Dolderbahn and Adlisberg Hill
- Zurich: Fondue and Rösti