Zurich: Fondue and Rösti

Zeughauskeller

除了RivellaLuxembergerli,我的清單上第三樣一定要吃到的食物是rösti,它是瑞士傳統料理的一道配菜,是個薯餅,蘇黎世最為推薦的傳統瑞士菜餐廳是Zeughauskeller軍火庫餐廳。

Along with Rivella and Luxembergerli, the third must-try food items on my list was rösti in a traditional Swiss meal. Rösti is a Swiss dish made of coarsely grated potato, shaped into a round patty and pan-fried. It is basically hash brown, Swiss style. The best place to try this dish along with traditional Swiss sausages supposedly would be Zeughauskeller.

ZeughauskellerZeughauskeller

軍火庫餐廳 Zeughauskeller

軍火庫餐廳離Paradeplatz很近,可以坐輕軌電車到Paradeplatz再走路到餐廳。這棟建築建於1487年,中古世界是這個城市的軍火庫,1926年變成餐廳,保留了原本的牆面和柱子,室內有很多中古世紀裝甲或武器做為裝飾,天氣好的時候可以坐外面。(官網的照片)

Zeughauskeller is very close to Paradeplatz, where multiple lines of trams and buses converge. Zeughaus means arsenal storehouse. This arsenal was built in 1487 and it was converted into a beer restaurant in 1926. Zeughauskeller is probably not the best restaurant in Zurich, but it’s possibly the best when it comes to the combination of good traditional Swiss cuisine and historical character. The interior of the restaurant is decorated with Middle Age weapons and armor. Outdoor seating is available when the weather is nice. (Photos from their website)

ZeughauskellerZeughauskeller Zeughauskeller's menu

這裡有名的是燉小牛肉 (Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, or Züri Geschnätzltes)、香腸和馬鈴薯,完全不用擔心會看不懂菜單,他們提供12種語言的版本。我點了恩加丁谷煙燻腸(Engadiner Hauswurst geräuchert)和rösti,香腸平常的配菜是馬鈴薯沙拉,換成rösti、薯條或蔬菜的話要加3.5瑞士法郎。據說這裡的啤酒很不錯,但我不是個愛喝啤酒的人所以完全不懂,

Being a popular touristy spot, Zeughauskeller’s menu comes in 12 languages. One of the most famous dish is Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, or Züri geschnätzltes, which means sliced meat Zurich style. It is a traditional dish in this area with veal and mushroom in creamy gravy. We came here for Swiss sausages so quickly flipped the menu to the entire page of various sausages. I ordered Engadiner Hauswurst Geräuchert, which is a smoke sausage from the Engadine valley, made of pork and beef. Sausages are served with potato salad. You can also substitute potato salad with rösti, french fries or vegetables at an additional charge of Fr 3.50.

Their beer hall has a good collection. I am not a beer drinker so unfortunately cannot comment on that.

ZeughauskellerZeughauskeller

(桌上附牙膏狀芥末醬!See! Mustard in tubes. Available at the table.)

這家餐廳在蘇黎世算價錢公道,但畢竟蘇黎世標準跟大家不一樣,我的晚餐一條香腸加一個薯餅,沒點飲料或其他配菜,就要22瑞士法郎!

The price is fair in Zurich standard. But of course Zurich fair is no where near reasonable from an either American or Taiwanese perspective. A meal of one sausage and one potato patty, with no drinks, appetizers or other side dishes,  cost 22 CHF!

Raclette Stube

瑞士鍋 Fondue at Raclette Stube

剛好我做的功課和和旅居蘇黎世的美國人都推薦了Raclette Stube這家瑞士鍋,於是這變成我們纜車之旅之後的晚餐。這家餐廳非常小,網路上有人說晚餐最好要訂位,我們不到六點就到餐廳,位子還不少,七點左右就全滿了。菜單很小,大致就是瑞士起士鍋和中式鍋,我們點了Fondue Fribourgeois,一半Gruyère起士一半Vacherin起士再加白酒和櫻桃利口酒,基本配菜是麵包和馬鈴薯,一份是Fr 27.8,兩個人分的話份量還不少,畢竟馬鈴薯和麵包很容易飽。

我沒有吃過用小顆馬鈴薯沾瑞士鍋,發現其實比麵包好吃。可以加點酸黃瓜和洋蔥來沾,不過要加Fr 5.9。

他們的起士鍋真的蠻好吃,我的起士鍋經驗不多,只有在台北天母瑞花餐廳的乳酪白酒和乳酪啤酒鍋,和美國只有巧克力鍋好吃的Melting Pot的傳統瑞士起士鍋。瑞花是家庭聚餐,點了超豐盛一大桌,啤酒口味的酒味很重,另外一種還不錯,但年代久遠,無法比較。Melting Pot只吃過cheddar cheese和traditional Swiss cheese,cheddar cheese還可以,瑞士口味超級難吃,果然美國人不會的東西還是不要逼大家。Raclette Stube的鍋加了白酒和利口酒,有酒香但沒有重的酒味,瑞士人的cheese名不虛傳,真的是我這輩子目前吃過最厲害的fondue。

Raclette Stube fondue

Based on the research I did and the recommendation of a local, Raclette Stube is the place to go for fondue. This restaurant is very accessible, very close to a big transit stop (Central) across the river from the train station. The restaurant is tiny. Some say making reservation is recommended for dinner. We got there at almost 6 p.m. and there were a couple of tables open. The restaurant became quite busy at about 7.

Raclette Stube’s menu is pretty limited. They basically offer raclette and fondue. We ordered a Fondue Fribourgeois, which is half Gruyère, half Vacherin, plus wine and Kirsch. Fr 27.8. The two of us shared and it was lots of food. Well, bread and potatoes fill you up easily.

The fondue was really good. Its alcohol did not overpower but blend in very well with the good quality cheese. The fondue was served with bread and boiled potatoes. You can also order pickles and pearl onions at an additional cost of Fr 5.9. I have never had fondue with small boiled potatoes. It was tasty and actually better than bread.

Raclette Stube

我朋友點了一杯白酒,我說水就好,但忘了特別強調要自來水,服務生送上一個玻璃杯跟一瓶礦泉水,我們十分傻眼,在蘇黎世水質這麼好的地方,誰要花錢喝礦泉水!?

最後結帳的時候,我跟我的美國室友一邊等找的錢回來,一邊討論我們要大方走出去還是押個一塊到三塊的小費,沒想到服務生就再也不回來了!大家想必常常遇到美國觀光客,沒事照美國標準付一些15-25%的小費,看到大鈔就大方收下了!學乖了以後到觀光客多的歐洲餐廳要準備好小張鈔票,以免又被當闊氣美國人。

My friend got a glass of white wine which was about Fr 5-6. I asked for water but forgot to specify that I wanted tap water. When our waitress showed up with a glass of wine and a glass for my bottled mineral water, I was speechless. And I thought, how much is that going to cost?! I don’t even drink bottled water at restaurants in the United States, not even in Pittsburgh where supposedly tap water quality is not great. Why would I pay for Evian while I am in Zurich where the tap water quality is fantastic!? That water cost just about as much as a glass of wine.

We did not have the exact change for the total bill. As we were waiting for our change, my American roommate and I were contemplating whether we should just walk out, European style, or leave a small tip of two or three francs. After a while, our waiter came to check on us and gave us the thank you and see you talk. Then we realized, we were not getting our change back!

They must serve a lot of American tourists who leave big tips of 15-25% so they figured they could comfortably accept a Fr 6+ tip But hello? We were neither uninformed or loaded. It was not a big enough amount to argue about though. We just let it go.

Lesson learned. Next time I need to make sure I have smaller bills when I go to a touristy restaurant in Europe. My roommate is actually very well-traveled, intelligent and sophisticated. But she is an American with blondish hair. I am an Asian that takes pictures of food. We talked in English and spoke zero Swiss German. So I guess with all these features and stereotypes combined, we fit in the dumb-Americans-that-tip-20% group.

Zeughauskeller (map)
Bahnhofstrasse 28A
8001 Zurich, Switzerland
http://www.zeughauskeller.ch/
Take trams to Paradeplatz and walk
Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Raclette Stube (map)
Zähringerstrasse 16
8001 Zurich, Switzerland
http://www.fondue-stuben.ch/
Tram 3,4,6,7,10,15 or Bus 31 to Central
Tram 4 or 15 to Rudolf-Brun-Brücke

 

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