Following Anthony Bourdain recommendations never goes wrong. He went to this Louisiana restaurant, Cochon in “Layover” in New Orleans. Boudin, and Louisiana pig with turnips and pork rind. Everything looked amazing.
跟著波登吃通常都不會錯，他在旅遊頻道的”Layover”去了一家紐奧良餐廳 Cochon (是法文”豬”的意思)，他點的血腸和上面放了炸豬皮的燉豬肉看起來真的很誘人。
Cochon is located in the trendy Warehouse District. You can take St, Charles streetcar from downtown or from the Garden District to Lee Circle and walk to the restaurant.
On the third day of our trip, we went to the Garden District and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 in the morning, took St. Charles streetcar to the restaurant, and then walked around in the Warehouse District. As we were excited about eating at this Bourdain recommended place that worships pork, we saw a dark, empty restaurant! It was CLOSED! Stupid me. I assumed that, in such a touristy place, restaurants stayed open on Sundays and did not check their hours. Cochon is closed on Sundays.
But that is not the end of the world. There is Cochon Butcher next to it.
Cochon位於新潮的倉庫區(Warehouse District)，這一區有很多博物館和藝廊，從市中心或者從花園區可以搭街車到這一帶，坐St. Charles街車在Lee Circle附近下車。
第三天早上我們搭街車去花園區和拉法葉墓園，中午再坐St. Charles街車在Lee Circle下車去餐廳，飯後逛倉庫區的 Julia Street。就在我們非常興奮要去吃波登推薦的Cajun變化版充滿豬肉餐廳的時候，發現他沒開!!!! 這才發現Cochon星期天關門，我天真以為這麼觀光的地區，餐廳星期天應該都會開。
Cochon is a Louisiana and Cajun inspired restaurant opened by a Louisiana native chef, Donald Link. He owns a number of restaurants and bars in New Orleans. Here’s what Cajun food means to him (interview with Andrew Zimmern):
Well, no one will agree on that, but it means boudin, gumbo, granny’s smothered pork with rice, my cousin’s smoked sausage, and lots of boiled crawfish. After that everything becomes an interpretation. I think Cajun food is rustic and real in it’s preparation and has amazing depth of flavor coaxed by slow cooking, and a lot of the cook’s soul and heart.
Chef Link launched Cochon a few months after Hurricane Katrina. Before the hurricane, he was a chef at Herbsaint. In this Anthony Bourdain show, video clips showed him wearing a heavy-duty mask and cleaning up kitchen and food storage after the hurricane ravaged everything he owned.
I’m gonna go back to a flooded, torn up, fucked up city, and I’m gonna open a fine dining restaurant. And then I’m going to open another restaurant….I had to sneak into the city and see what is going on.
After the storm, he reopened the restaurant Herbsaint in five weeks. That fine dining restaurant he talked about was Cochon, and the other restaurant was Cochon Butcher.
Cochon Butcher is a butcher shop/deli/bar. We loved this place! It is a deli with a bar menu. And it is also a charcuterie where you can buy locally sourced, house-made cured meat and sausages.
Cochon是路易西安那廚師Donald Link開的餐廳，他在紐奧良開了大概五家大大小小餐廳，Cochon是在卡翠娜颶風肆虐的幾個月之後開張的。風災之前，Chef Link是Herbsaint餐廳的主廚，波登有個旅遊頻道的影片剪了當年Chef Link戴防毒面具清理風災之後淹水長蟲的食材的畫面，他說，我要回到這個淹水、被摧毀成一團糟的城市，我要開一家高級餐廳，然後再開另一家餐廳。短短五個禮拜之後他就重新開張他的Herbsaint，之後開了Cochon以及Cochon Butcher。
We ordered a headcheese ($6), duck pastrami slider ($6), and a pork belly sandwich ($10.) Everything was amazing! The headcheese was served with house-made pickles, mustard, and chow-chow, a pickled relish made from a combination of vegetables including onion, cabbage and more. The house-made pickles were sweet and went really well with the headcheese and crackers.
我們點了豬頭肉凍 (headcheese, $6)、燻鴨肉三明治(duck pastrami slider, $6) 和五花肉三明治 (pork belly sandwich, $10)，另外點了墨西哥可樂和英國蘋果酒，每一樣都超好吃！豬頭肉凍是配脆餅、餐廳自製酸黃瓜、芥末和醃菜(chow-chow)，他們的酸黃瓜甜甜的，和肉凍、芥末跟脆餅很搭。
The duck pastrami slider was more like a fancy grilled cheese. Butter-grilled bread and Gruyere cheese made it so good! The meat could be a bit duckier for my taste but it did not matter. The sandwich was delicious.
燻鴨肉三明治雖然叫slider (通常是小漢堡) 但其實是高檔的grilled cheese烤起士吐司。吐司塗了奶油然後煎的脆脆的，加上一層Gruyere起士，應該是我這輩子吃過最好吃的pastrami sandwich也是最好吃的grilled cheese！不過鴨味沒有很重，但不是很重要，整個三明治超好吃。
The pork belly sandwich was incredible with seared juicy pork and a touch of mint. The pork belly was seared with a crust. Thinly sliced cucumber, fresh mint and lime flavored aioli added refreshing taste to the fatty pork belly. And again, I love their pickles!
The restaurant is small with limited seating. It was very busy the entire time we were there. If I went again, I would probably try their boudin and their take of muffuletta.
If you take St. Charles streetcar to Lee Circle and walk to the restaurant, the National World War II Museum should be on your way. If you walk to Julia Street closer to the Convention Center side, you can find some interesting t-shirts at Dirty Coast. Better price and better design than what you’d see in overpriced souvenir shops on Decatur Street.
Galleries on Julia Street is not far from Cochon Butcher. Maybe we visited the Art District at a bad timing when most of the galleries were closed on Sunday. Maybe this street was actually a developing area that was booming. (A lot of space along Julia Street was empty and available for leasing or being remodeled.) Overall we thought the Warehouse District Julia Street was overrated. Royal Street’s welcoming galleries and studios were more fun to us. But we did enjoy walking through Steve Martin Fine Art studio and loved his “Wire Nude” series.
如果搭St. Charles街車到Lee Circle再走到Cochon Butcher，會經過二戰博物館，畫廊街 Julia Street離餐廳不遠，這條街上、靠近會議中心那一頭，有一家t-shirt店 Dirty Coast，賣一些有設計感的t-shirt，如果有需要買紀念品，可以先在網站看看有沒有喜歡的，買它比在Decatur Street標價超貴的觀光客紀念品店買衣服好多了。
可能我們逛茱莉亞街的時機不好，星期天大部分畫廊都關門；也可能是這個倉庫區是一個正在發展的新興區 (畫廊區很多一樓空著在出租或正在裝潢)，倉庫區其實沒有旅遊網站介紹的那麼有趣，法國區Royal Street的畫廊和畫室比較平易近人又會看到寶。不過我們有在這條路上發現新大陸，我妹很喜歡Steven Martin Fine Art Studio，我們都很愛他的”Wire Nude“系列。
930 Tchoupitoulas Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
(Note that they close at 4 p.m. on Sundays.)