New Orleans: A Streetcar Named Desire 紐奧良街車

Originally we wanted to take a ride on the St. Charles streetcars only because of the 1947 play and 1951 film of A Streetcar Named Desire. Then we realized that taking the streetcars is actually the best way to tour part of the city.

本來只是為了電影「慾望街車」所以想搭一下St. Charles Avenue線的古老綠色街車,後來發現街車其實是走遍大半城市最方便的交通工具。

The streetcars are operated by New Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Currently there are four lines: The St. Charles Avenue Line, the Riverfront Line, the Canal Street Line, and the Loyola Avenue Line. The city is planning on adding more. The fare for both the streetcars and buses is $1.25 and a transfer is $0.25. A day pass is only $3. So cheap! Day passes can be bought on any bus or streetcar. Remember to bring exact change for the machine.

紐奧良的街車和公車資訊在Regional Transit Authority (RTA),目前街車有四條線:The St. Charles Avenue Line, the Riverfront Line, the Canal Street Line, and the Loyola Avenue Line,將來會有更多路線,單程票是$1.25,轉乘要加$0.25,單日票只要三塊錢!超便宜,在公車和街車上面都可以直接買單日票,要記得準備好小鈔或零錢餵機器。

I can read, but the read door was always so tight that I could not open it! 後門超緊我完全打不開!

I can read, but the rear door was always so tight that I could not open! 後門超緊我完全打不開!

You can easily plan your schedule to make a day pass well worth it. Visiting most of the destinations in the Quarter can be done in one day on foot. Activities in the Warehouse District, the Garden District and more can be grouped together in one day when you buy a day pass. You can take the St. Charles Avenue line from downtown to experience the famous, historical green streetcars and get to the Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 in the Garden District. The easiest (laziest?) way to see mansions in the Garden District is on a streetcar. After visiting the cemetery and the Garden District, the same streetcar also takes you to the Warehouse District for some amazing sandwiches and meat at Cochon Butcher recommended by Anthony Bourdain. The Warehouse District is also where the World War II Museum and many art galleries are located. The St. Charles Avenue streetcar goes all the way to the uptown, passing the Audubon Park to the Mississippi River. The St. Charles streetcars come about every 20 minutes. 

On our second full day in New Orleans, we hopped on a St. Charles streetcar in CBD and got off at St. Charles at Washington to go to a Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 tour with Save Our Cemeteries. That travel takes about 25 minutes. After the tour, we took the same streetcar to Lee Circle and walked to Cochon Butcher for some delicious duck pastrami slider and pork belly sandwich. To walk it off, we went to check out a couple of art galleries on Julia Street. And then we got on the same line of streetcars again to see the Garden District Southern mansions on a ride.

如果好好排行程,全日票可以用的非常划算。法國區的景點和餐廳可以排在一天,走路就可以。倉庫區和花園區等等的景點可以排一天,在這天買單日票,從市中心搭St. Charles Avenue街車去花園區看拉法葉墓園和南方有錢人的大房子,然後同一條線可以往市中心方向搭到倉庫區去吃波登推薦的Cochon Butcher順便逛逛藝廊或二戰博物館,這條線還可以一路坐到上城的河邊,經過Audubon Park,大概二十分鐘一班車。

在紐奧良的第二個整天,我們在市中心跳上St. Charles街車,搭到Washington Avenue下車,走去拉法葉墓園參加Save Our Cemeteries的導覽,車程加走路大概25分鐘,然後回到St. Charles Avenue搭同一台車反方向到Lee Circle,走去Cochon Butcher吃燻鴨肉三明治和五花肉三明治,吃完逛逛Julia Street的藝廊,再跳上同一條線往上城方向,坐車看豪宅。

My plan was to take the streetcar all the way up to the Mississippi River and then take a walk in the Audubon Park. Unfortunately, the railway beyond Napoleon Avenue was under construction and all passengers had to get off the streetcar. Supposedly Magazine Street from CBD to Napoleon Avenue is for shopping, lined up with restaurants and boutiques, so we changed our plan and walked along the Magazine Street. Most of the stores were closed on Sunday. Shops are quite scattered. Don’t expect to see stores one next to another in a few blocks. The strip expands more than 20 blocks. If you get tired of walking, there is a bus that runs on Magazine Street and can take you back to CBD or the Quarter.

本來計畫搭這班車一路到底去密西西比河邊看看,再回來幾站到Audubon Park,看起來有很多漂亮樹形的樹,很不巧後面這段鐵道在維修,司機在Napoleon Avenue趕大家下車。據說Magazine Street從市中心到Napoleon Avenue這段是逛街聖地,所以我們改變計畫,沿著Napoleon Avenue走到Magazine Street然後往市中心方向走。鄉下地方的「逛街聖地」跟大家想的真的不一樣,店很散,整段路非常長,少說有二十個街區,星期天大部分的店都關門,偶爾看到一兩家想進去的家飾或精品店都沒開。其中一段有幾家有名餐廳,這段路的好處是,走累了可以停下來等Magazine Street公車回市中心或法國區。

One our last day in NOLA, we decided to buy another day pass and tour the city on streetcars. Um, not a great idea. We took bus 88 to N. Rampart Street and Ursuline Avenue to go get a chocolate croissant and spinach quiche from Croissant d’Or. That saved us a walk. And then we walked to the French Market stop of the Riverfront Line to take a ride down the riverbank of the Mississippi River. The Riverfront line goes from French Market to the Convention Center. The river view is only available during part of the way. The Riverfront streetcars run every half an hour. Once you reach the final stop, you’d have to get off and wait at the station until the driver turns around after a break. It would be better to just walk along the Moon Walk if you want to see the river.

最後一天上午我們決定再買一次單日票,坐街車認識紐奧良,是個不錯經驗但一點也不推薦。早上先從飯店坐88公車到N. Rampart Street和Ursuline Avenue的路口,走到Croissant d’Or吃巧克力可頌和菠菜鹹派,省了一大段路。吃完走到Riverfront streetcar的起站/終點站French Market,想說可以搭街車看看沿河風景,但發現Riverfront line其實只有一小段看得到河,坐到會議中心Convention Center之後又要下車在原地等大概半小時才會發車,要體驗密西西比河畔風光的話自己走Moon Walk比較有道理。

We also took the Canal Street line up to Carrollton Avenue. I wanted to take the Canal Streetcar City Park/Museum line to the City Park, but that line runs every half an hour. We did not have time to wait. Our plan was to see as much of the city as we could and then go get some raw oysters from Acme Oyster House before we left for the airport. So we took the streetcar to Carrollton ─ the last stop before the two lines of Canal Street streetcars split. There was really not much to see along the Canal Street line before Carrollton Ave.

搭完Riverfront我們又跳上Canal streetcar到Carrollton Avenue,其實是想搭Canal Streetcar Cit Park/Museum線到City Park,但那條線半小時才一班車,我們在街車遊城之後還要去Acme吃生蠔然後趕去機場,所以只搭到Carrollton Avenue ─ Canal街車兩條線分岔前的最後一站,這段路其實沒什麼好看的,是個不特別的市區街景。

The way locals use their roads was fascinating to me. The streetcar rails are essentially a trail for locals to jog or bike along.

當地人把街車軌道當慢跑兼腳踏車道來用真的很妙。

Advertisements

4 thoughts on “New Orleans: A Streetcar Named Desire 紐奧良街車

  1. Pingback: New Orleans: Transportation and Hotel 紐奧良住與行 | Near and Far

  2. The only thing you missed during your foray was a true NOLA staple: the “snowball!”

    http://nola.eater.com/archives/2012/04/23/the-coldmap-where-to-get-a-snowball-in-new-orleans.php

    I’d personally endorse Tee-Eva’s Pralines and More, which is on Magazine Street (Within a few blocks of the related streetcar stop). She keeps some amazingly quirky hours–“Open when I get here, Close when I go home”–but it’s MORE than worth swinging by.

    http://www.tee-evapralines.com/snowball-stand.htm

    • I passed by a snowball shop on Magazine Street and it was busy. Didn’t know that’s a NOLA staple! As of pralines…I only tried Aunt Sallys because, well, they’re everywhere.

      • To be fair, they can be easy to overlook, since the average traveler immediately goes “Eh… it’s a Sno-Cone. Maybe next time!”

        It isn’t until you try one on a legitimate “billion-degrees-in-the-shade”-type NOLAugust days that you realize they aren’t just frozen confections… but rather some sort of alchemical miracle, which apparently doesn’t exist ANYWHERE else on the planet.

        (Seriously, I’ve never seen a proper Snowball stand outside of Baton Rouge and NOLA… even in “no-brainer” spots like Savannah and Houston, which have a similar gastroculture!)

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s