Every time I go to New York City, I crave for the same food. Brunch at Max Brenner with banana split waffle and dark chocolate granita; Shack Stack burger from Shake Shack; gyro and chicken over rice from the Halal Guys at 6 Avenue and 53rd Street… But this time, we decided to try something different and follow Anthony Bourdain’s recommendations. Only the cheap eats though. Can’t go wrong with that.
每次去紐約都跑去吃一樣的東西，Max Brenner的香蕉船鬆餅和黑巧克力冰飲、Shake Shack的蘑菇可樂餅牛肉堡、Halal Guys的地中海羊肉雞肉飯…這次決定丟下我的必訪清單，跟著波登吃紐約──窮人版本。
East Village, night market style 東村當成夜市吃
We only had three days in New York. Things need to be carefully planned out. Too many good food destinations are located in East Village. We decided to eat dinner in East Village, night market style.
Ideally I would like to start with some grilled corn from Cafe Habana in Nolita, head over to East Village, grab a plate of amazing stir-friend handmade noodle from Xi’an Famous Foods, go on with our Anthony Bourdain adventure, and snack on fries with interesting flavors of mayo from Pommes Frites. Unfortunately, we were a group of two. My stomach would have to be four times its size to complete this itinerary. Besides, I made a bad, but sweet and pleasant, call earlier and ate one entire waffle with two scoops of ice cream from Waffle and Dinges. I could not afford to be that ambitious.
在紐約只待三天，每一餐和路線都要好好計畫，東村有太多目的地，乾脆湊一餐當夜市在吃。完美的理想計畫是路上先去Nolita的Cafe Habana點一份烤玉米，烤玉米聽起來平凡無奇但這家真的超好吃！再到東村先來一盤西安名吃的乾麵，開始波登推薦之旅，然後吃Pommes Frites的比利時薯條沾奇特口味美乃滋當零食。但我們只有兩個人，胃可能要四倍大才能照這個理想清單吃，還有，我雪上加霜的做了個不理智的決定，下午無法抵抗Waffle and Dinges的美好吃了一整個份比利時鬆餅加冰淇淋，走到東村還在飽。
So, our first stop was Crif Dogs. In the Layover episode, Momofuku’s chef, David Chang, took Anthony Bourdain to this basement hot dog shop right next to a dive bar. Crif Dogs offers a big selection of toppings. We got a Jon-Jon Deragon. It’s an everything bagel in the form of a hog dog in a bun ─ a wiener with a schmear of cream cheese, scallion and everything bagel seeds ($3.75.) This hot dog is juicy and the flavor is brilliant. Tater tots looked very good, but we did not have any space available.
第一站是Crif Dogs，在旅遊頻道的Layover紐約那一集，紐約新寵名廚David Change帶波登來吃這家的熱狗，這家小店在地下室，非常有個性也不錯幽默，熱狗的選擇很多，我們點了Jon-Jon Deragon，是everything bagel的熱狗版──熱狗堡上面塗一層cream cheese再灑上蔥花和everything bagel上面的料，$3.75美金，熱狗蠻多汁，這個組合很不錯，他們的薯球看起來很好吃，但如果再塞炸馬鈴薯大概就要飽到走不動了。
Our next stop was arepas from Caracas. The tiny restaurant was packed. After putting our name on the list, we took a walk in the Tompkins Square Park. A very New York scene left me speechless. I’ve seen giant rats strolling down New York metro railway as if walking around a playground in their backyard. I’ve never seen giant rats flirting with and chasing each other in the open on a lawn of a public park, as if they are squirrels. Well, it’s New York.
下一站是Caracas的委內瑞拉餡餅arepas，餐廳爆滿，於是我們先去Tompkins Square Park散步，晚上的Timpkins Square Park…萬象叢生!? 如果是我自己一個人絕對不敢走進來，除了人之外，大自然生態也十分奧妙。在紐約地鐵常常看到老鼠逛大街，但巨大老鼠在公園草地打情罵俏追逐戰還真是第一次看到，三隻老鼠活生生把自己當成松鼠一樣在外面跑。
The Venezuelan restaurant, Caracas, is known for its arepas. Arepas are corn meal pocket bread with filling. This dish is from Colombia and Venezuela. In Manhattan, Caracas has a dine-in restaurant and a separate take out bar. The restaurant is very small with minimal space at each table.
Both very full, we only ordered an arepa and a tostones mochimeros─friend plantains topped with mojito mayo, lemon juice and white cheese. For the arepa, we picked the very traditional pabellón─shredded beef ($8.) Fried plantain was amazing because of the balanced flavor of its topping. The corn-flour pocket bread was crispy. Everything was delicious.
我們兩個都吃不下多少，只點了一個牛肉餡餅(pabellón)和炸綠香蕉/大蕉tostones mochimeros，牛肉餡餅pabellón是比較傳統的口味，玉米粉掛包裡面夾燉牛肉絲、黑豆、烤大蕉(plantain)和起士，餡餅的餅皮表面烤得脆脆的。tostones mochimeros則是炸的plantain上面放mojito美乃滋、白起士和檸檬汁，醬料的調味很好吃。
To end the evening with something sweet, we walked over to Big Gay Ice Cream. I had my mind set on those yummy cones of vanilla ice cream with caramel swirl inside and dipped in chocolate after I saw people walking around with those. But I could not finish one by myself at this point and decided to go with whatever my sister wanted to try. We ordered the gobbler─vanilla ice cream with apple butter and bourbon butterscotch. It was dessert in a cup! Besides that there was too much whipped cream for me, that mixture was very tasty!
晚餐的收尾是Big Gay Ice Cream，之前經過一直看到路人的焦糖巧克力甜筒，但因為到這個時候我已經無法自己吃完一份，只好點我妹想吃的口味，我們點了蘋果gobbler──香草冰淇淋加蘋果奶油和波本奶油焦糖，除了鮮奶油太多之外，真的很秋天很好吃！下次去要點擠滿焦糖醬再沾巧克力硬殼的香草冰淇淋！
Hidden Secret: The Burger Joint 隱身大飯店的漢堡
Anthony Bourdain highly praised this burger place. We had to check out what’s so special about it.
The Burger Join is located inside Le Parker Meridien Hotel on the 56th Street near the 6th Avenue. Very easy to miss. The restaurant is hidden in a corner of the lobby behind curtains with a narrow entrance. This place gets very busy. Anthony Bourdain warned people that they should have their order and change ready when they are in line. (Burger Joint takes credit cards now!) The restaurant even prints instruction in many languages to avoid having confused tourists slowing things down.
The juicy burger has a chargrilled taste which makes it very good. To me, the dive restaurant atmosphere and the hidden location make this burger place awesome more than anything else. It was not the best burger I’ve ever had, but I would be more than happy to go back again if I’m in midtown.
波登大力推薦這家漢堡店Burger Joint，這家餐廳在56街靠近第六大道的Le Parker Meridien飯店裡面，還蠻難找的，餐廳入口藏在飯店大廳的一角，用紅色布幔擋住，只留一條小小通道。這家餐廳生意超好，波登在節目裡警告大家排隊的時候要想好要點什麼還要準備好零錢，(店家現在會收信用卡了!) 門口放了簡體中文、日文、俄文等等的傳單解釋怎麼點餐避免搞不清楚狀況的遊客卡在隊伍前面。他們的漢堡很多汁又有炭烤的味道，但其實說不上是人間美味，反倒是秘密地點和氣氛讓這家店十分有特色！(起士漢堡$8.27)
113 St Marks Pl, New York, NY 10009
Sun-Thur noon-2 a.m.; Fri-Sat noon-4 a.m.
93 1/2 E 7th St, New York, NY 10003
Everyday noon-11 p.m.
Big Gay Ice cream
125 E 7th St, New York, NY 10009
Everyday 1 p.m.-midnight
119 W 56th St, New York, NY 10019
Sun-Thur 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m.; Fri-Sat 11 a.m.-midnight