Kyoto: Colorful Temple and Food Porn 京都:彩色布猴子八坂庚申堂和神級蛋包飯

After strolling through the historical Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka area and grabbing iconic shots of the Yasaka Pagoda, we kept walking down Yasaka Dori. One of the highlights of this day trip popped up on our left — the very colorful temple, Yasaka Kōshin-dō. It is one of the most instagrammable places in Kyoto.

去過清水寺、走過產寧坂和二年坂、又拍完八坂塔之後,繼續沿著松原通往下走,左手邊就是本日行程重點之一、Instagram熱門打卡景點八坂庚申堂 (Yasaka Kōshin-dō)。

Kōshin-shinkō (庚申信仰) is a folk belief that is a hybrid of Taoism, Shinto, Buddhism and other folk religions. Yasaka Kōshin-dō (八坂庚申堂) in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto worships a warrior and the three wise monkeys.

庚申信仰是個民間信仰,混合了道教、神道教、佛教和其他民間信仰,京都東山的八坂庚申堂拜的是青面金剛和三不猴。

The temple is full of round, ball-shaped charms made of cloth. They represent monkeys. These are called kukurizaru. I guess the colors represent people’s desire-driven nature; tied up arms and legs represent control and sacrifice — if you exercise some self-control then your wish may come true.

八坂庚申堂超歡樂,掛滿彩色布猴子,叫kukurizaru,猴子手腳被綁住,代表有犧牲有自制願望就會實現。

This temple is very small. It is free of admission. You can buy a kukurizaru for 500 yen, write your wish on it, tie it somewhere, and hope your wish will come true. We got the last one of the day!

這個廟很小很小,參觀免費,許願猴子一個五百日幣,我們超幸運買到當天最後一個布猴子!

The famous coffee shop % ARABICA is right down the street. Arabica opened its first shop in 2014 right here near the Yasaka Pagoda in Kyoto. There are two shops in Kyoto. Arabica roasts its coffee beans on site. Some say it is the best coffee in Kyoto. We were lame. We waited in line for a while and gave up.

八坂庚申堂斜對面就是超夯咖啡店% ARABICA,在京都有兩家店,八坂塔這家是2014年開的創始店。我們排一排就肚子餓失去耐心跑走了….

Tired and starving, we passed by Kōdai-ji and only walked around a small corner of the Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社).

肚子餓又走得很累,跳過高台寺,只走過石塀小路和寧寧之道,八坂神社也只走進側門而已 (其實明明可以側門進去大門出來一小圈)。

We arrived in Gion (祇園) at dusk. This is also a historical preservation area. Gion is known for teahouses and geisha performances — or geiko as people say in Kyoto. Those National Geographic snapshots of geisha walking out of traditional Japanese townhouses are mostly shot here. You would likely see photographers with long lenses staking-out in front of teahouses waiting to snap a rare shot. Another temple Kenninji is nearby. It was closing by the time we made it there.

傍晚到了祇園花見小路,這也是個歷史保護區,超多人帶著大砲等著拍藝妓走出門,德屋蕨餅排隊排好長,其實很想吃葛切或蕨餅,但這一趟沒機會吃到。到這邊的時候建仁寺要關門了,只有我爸跑進去迅速晃了一圈。

This concludes your day of walking tour in Higashiyama — from the amazing wood structure at Kiyomizu-dera, charming historical streets of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, the colorful monkey shrine, to movie scenes in Gion. (Click here for the first half or the day, a walking map, and tips for where to go after dark.)

We walked to the Shijō Kawaramachi to kill some time before our dinner reservation. Walking around LoFt was fun.

到這邊就是東山清水寺一帶散步一日遊的結尾,為了殺時間,等晚餐,我們在四條河原的LoFt逛了一下。

Dinner was highly anticipated for months. I set a calendar reminder for six weeks before this day to make a reservation as soon as this week’s time slots opened up. And I spent an entire night clicking on one Instagram video after another watching an amazing chef serve up a ridiculous omelet.

It was the legendary omelet over rice — Kichi Kichi Omurice (ザ・洋食屋 キチキチ).

晚餐是期待已久的神級爆漿蛋包飯 Kichi Kichi Omurice (ザ・洋食屋 キチキチ),好幾個月前就設了日曆提醒自己去的六個禮拜前預約開放的那一秒就要訂位,還在Instagram上面看了一百個蛋包飯切開的影片看不膩。

The restaurant is hidden in a narrow alley. This place only seats eight.

Chef Motokichi Yukimura opened this restaurant in 1978. He still personally prepares omurice in front of customers after cooking here for almost 40 years. He makes dozens of omurice a day, and yet every single time is a show.

Kichi Kichi Omurice在一條小巷子裡,只有八個座位,主廚幸村元吉在1978年開了這家餐廳,做了快四十年還是親自準備每一份蛋包飯,每一份都是一場秀。

His signature dish is omurice — omelet over fried rice. He is quite a character. You are walking into not just a dinner but an incredible show. This is a serious food porn quality meal. His recipe involves lots of showmanship.

He starts by making fried rice by tossing all of the ingredients sky high in a frying pan several times. He himself or the staff plates the fried rice and sits it on a counter in front of the customers.

Next he moves on to making the magical omelet. It starts with mixed egg in a burning hot skillet. As the egg mixture cooks, he stirs it to create a perfect texture for the runny interior. Then he gently and effortlessly folds the omelet by flipping the skillet, creating a flawlessly smooth surface and an oval shape. It is all about experience. He then brings the skillet close to the plated fried rice, carefully balances the omelet on top of the rice, and makes sure the omelet sits tight.

在這裡吃飯根本是看秀,主廚實在很有戲。先從炒飯開始,平底鍋翻炒飯的技術超強,飯炒好會放進一個模子塑形再倒扣在盤子上,放到我們桌前。

接下來做神奇蛋包,經驗老到很懂蛋,把蛋液倒到鑄鐵平底鍋上,用筷子攪拌出半生熟,再用平底鍋橋到出現完美平滑表皮的蛋包,然後把蛋包帶到我們面前,輕輕滑到炒飯上面,用筷子平衡。

Then he picks up a kitchen knife, and neatly slices right down the middle.

然後幸村主廚拿起一把刀,俐落劃開。

Bibbidi-Bobbidi-Boo!

It was truly an eye-opening, life-changing magical moment when I watched the half-cooked egg rolling down a hill of fried rice in a second and seamlessly forming a fluffy golden carpet.

搭拉!我在Instagram上看了一百個影片的療癒畫面!刀子劃開的一瞬間,半生熟的蛋很俐落地滑落炒飯小山,鋪開在盤子上,變成超鬆軟金黃地毯。

Here’s a video that may convince you to put Kyoto and this omurice place on your bucket list.

Now, that was his standard way of making the omelet. We ordered four. I watched this food porn up close four times! For two of them, he upgraded the performance to what he called “the special.” The chef cooked the omelet to perfection as before. But instead of sliding it from the skillet to a plate of fried rice, he held the plate of fried rice in one hand, and flipped the omelet from the skillet over his head onto the plate!

As soon as the omelet hit the plated fried rice, it unfolded into that perfect fluffy carpet of yumminess!

快自己去Instagram找影片或看這裡,超完美半生熟蛋打開的瞬間真的很療癒。

這是幸村主廚的蛋包飯基本款表演,還有他說是”special”的華麗版,煎好蛋包之後,一手拿一盤炒飯,一手拿鑄鐵鍋,一甩,蛋包飛起來摔在炒飯上,瞬間爆漿變成金黃美味半生熟蛋毯。

To be honest, I was not too crazy about the demi-glace sauce. The taste is slightly bitter. I probably just don’t understand how to appreciate this French brown sauce. But the omelet. It was cooked to perfection. I don’t know what he added to the egg mixture or what magic he does in that skillet. The egg was delicious.

While this omurice is the signature, the restaurant serves other items on the menu as well, such as the also famous beef stew. My husband does not like eggs and ordered a buttery sauce chicken.

The omurice is available in two portions, standard and small. The small portion is tiny. The waiting staff would show you the fried rice molds for your reference while you decide which portion you want to get.

其實我沒有很愛這個略苦的法式多蜜醬汁,我大概無法體會這個法式料理的大人味,但這個蛋!口感超滑順!又好香!裡面不知道是加了起士奶油還是巫術,超好吃!

蛋包飯有分大份和小份,本來我還考慮點小份,怕太飽,結果服務生拿來大小兩個模子給我們參考的時候著實被小的嚇到,是兒童餐的概念嗎,也太小,大家點大份就可以了。雖然說招牌是蛋包飯,菜單上也有其他餐點,譬如說也很有名的燉牛肉,Aaron不吃蛋,點了奶油白醬雞肉,他也蠻愛。

It is recommended to make reservation on its website. Reservations can be made up to six weeks in advance. Walk-ins will work if you are lucky. This place isn’t cheap. An omurice is 2700 yen. If you ask me that was worth every penny.

雖然說現在也可以排隊碰運氣,強烈建議大家要訂位,六個禮拜前會開放線上訂位。這家實在不便宜,一份蛋包飯要日幣兩千七,但是為了滑順的半生熟蛋和超值主廚秀,真的很值得去!

 

Part One — Kyoto: Strolling through the Historical Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka 清水寺坂坂區散步地圖

 

Kichi Kichi Omurice  ザ・洋食屋 キチキチ
17:00 ~ 21:00
Check the website for days off
Reservation recommended
kichi2.net

 

 

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